A Beginner's Guide to Installing a Chain Link Fence
A chain link fence is a popular and practical choice for homeowners, offering security, durability, and a clear view of your property without breaking the bank. While it might seem like a job best left to professionals, with the right tools, materials, and a bit of patience, installing your own is a very achievable weekend project. This step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from planning the layout to stretching the mesh, helping you create a sturdy and long-lasting barrier for your yard.
Step 1: Planning Your Fence Layout and Gathering Materials
Before you dig a single hole, careful planning is essential for a successful installation. Start by confirming your property lines to avoid any disputes with neighbors. You can usually find this information on your property deed or a plat map from your local records office. Next, contact your local utility companies by calling 811 (the "Call Before You Dig" number) to have them mark any underground lines for gas, water, or electricity. Also, check with your local municipality or homeowner's association for any regulations regarding fence height, materials, or setback requirements. Once you have a clear plan, gather your materials. You will need terminal posts (thicker posts for corners, ends, and gates), line posts, a top rail, the chain link fabric (or mesh), tension bands, brace bands, rail ends, post caps, loop caps, fence ties, and concrete mix. For tools, you'll need a post-hole digger, a level, a tape measure, a string line, a shovel, a wheelbarrow, and a fence puller or come-along for stretching the mesh.
Step 2: Setting the Terminal and Line Posts
The foundation of a strong fence is properly set posts. Begin by marking the locations for your terminal posts. These are the most critical, so take your time. Dig holes for the terminal posts that are about three times the width of the post and one-third the height of the post deep, plus an extra few inches for a gravel base. For example, a 6-foot high fence post should go into a hole about 2.5 feet deep. Shovel a few inches of gravel into the bottom for drainage, set the post in the center, and use a level to ensure it is perfectly plumb (vertical). Mix your concrete according to the package directions to a thick consistency and pour it into the hole around the post, sloping the top away from the post to shed water. Let the concrete cure for at least 24-48 hours. Once the terminal posts are set, run a taut string line between them to mark the placement for your line posts. Dig holes for the line posts (they don't need to be as deep or wide as terminal post holes) and set them in concrete, ensuring they are aligned with the string and plumb.
Step 3: Attaching Fittings and Installing the Top Rail
While the concrete for your terminal posts is still wet, it's a good time to slide on the necessary fittings. On each terminal post, slide on the tension bands and brace bands. The number of tension bands should match the height of your fence (e.g., a 4-foot fence needs four bands). Don't tighten them yet. Place a post cap on top of each terminal post and a loop cap on top of each line post. Once the concrete has fully cured, you can install the top rail. Feed the top rail through the loop caps on the line posts. The ends of the rail will be secured to the terminal posts using rail end cups, which attach to the brace bands you installed earlier. Ensure the top rail is level and securely connected.
Step 4: Unrolling and Stretching the Chain Link Mesh
This is the most critical step for achieving a professional-looking fence. Start at one of your terminal posts and unroll the chain link mesh along the outside of the fence line. Temporarily attach one end of the mesh to the terminal post by feeding a tension bar vertically through the end of the fabric. Attach this tension bar to the tension bands on the post. Now, walk to the opposite terminal post, pulling the fabric taut by hand. To get the required tension, you will need a fence puller (also called a stretcher bar) and a come-along tool. Attach the fence puller to the mesh a few feet from the terminal post and hook the come-along to both the puller and the terminal post. Slowly crank the come-along to stretch the mesh until it is tight. A good test for tension is when you can squeeze the links together with one hand and they spring back. Be careful not to over-tighten, as this can damage the mesh or posts.
Step 5: Securing the Mesh and Finishing Touches
Once the mesh is properly stretched, you can secure it permanently. Insert another tension bar into the mesh near the terminal post and attach it to the tension bands. Now you can release the come-along and remove the fence puller. With the mesh stretched between the terminal posts, it's time to attach it to the line posts and top rail. Use fence ties (aluminum wires) to secure the fabric to the top rail every 24 inches and to each line post every 12 inches. For added stability and to prevent pets from digging underneath, you can install a tension wire along the bottom of the fence. Weave this wire through the bottom links of the mesh and secure it to the terminal posts. Finally, hang any gates according to the manufacturer's instructions. Step back and admire your new, secure, and professionally installed fence.